Real Fast Puddings by Nigel Slater

Author:Nigel Slater
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9781405917346
Publisher: Penguin Books Ltd
Published: 2013-07-19T16:00:00+00:00

Zabaglione

I used to be terrified of this stuff. I usually am of anything I am not too sure how to pronounce. Zabaglione, zabaione or, in French, sabayon is the magical transformation of eggs, sugar and wine, via heat and elbow grease, into a thick frothy voluptuous custard. It is probably as old as the hills and, despite its name, is absurdly easy.

The work involved is simply that of beating the mixture while it warms in a bowl over hot water. A hand-held electric whisk will save you getting beater’s cramp (there is little less appetising than watching someone break into a sweat when they are cooking). Some people avoid making this because it demands last-minute attention, which is why it is suitable for those whose entertaining is of the casual kind. Like hot fritters, it is ideal for informal meals where you are eating in the kitchen, then at least your guests might offer to hold the whisk for a while. Expect it to take 12–15 minutes. Which is why you need an electric whisk.

Just one word of caution, though: do not allow the bottom of the bowl to touch the hot water in the pan, or the water to do more than simmer. If the mixture overheats you will have something extremely unappealing in your bowl.

I like easily remembered formulae. They got me through my exams. Except the accountancy ones – which I failed spectacularly. Recipes are no exception, and I make this version of zabaglione rather than any other because I can remember it without looking it up. It is also a really good one.

for 6

4 egg yolks

100g /4oz caster sugar

100ml /4fl oz Marsala

Beat the egg yolks with the sugar in a bowl with an electric whisk. Add the Marsala and place the bowl over a pan of simmering water. Do not let the bowl touch the water or you will have scrambled eggs. Do not answer the phone, or pour yourself a drink unless it is from the Marsala bottle, and do not try to clear away the main course dishes. Just beat.

When the mixture is thick and frothy – it should virtually stand in peaks – it is ready. Ladle the zabaglione into glasses and serve immediately while it is still warm and sensual.

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